Tuesday, 16 August 2011
Clwyd Meet at Penmaen Head
After climbing with Mike on Sunday he told me about the Clwyd Mountaineering Club meets that they have on the costal crags the next one being at Penmaen Head. So I headed down there and met up with them. It felt great to be out here again it's such an awesome crag! After a quick chat Alex and Mike told me about a great 6a+ called Blitzy's Jug. Mike told me the story behind the name which was cool. It's great getting to climb with the person who actually bolted the route your on! A real privilege. You can see how much pride he takes in them and I can see why!
Mike didn't have a partner so we went over and I tried it on lead. I made it up to the section just bellow the top headwall and had to rest on the bolt, I could tell I still wasn't used to how sustained these routes are! I'm too used to walking up to the crux at Trevor Rocks! Needless to say I finished the route with some handy Beta from Ian Andrews who was on his and Fran Growling's route "Aphelion" next to me.
After finishing the route I came down and Mike introduced me to them both. Both cool guys who were great climbers to. Mike suggested I try there route "Aphelion" 6a. Thinking this would be a walk in the park compared to the 6a+ I was just on...I couldn't be more mistaken!
The crux for me was getting through this giant flake which has some great lay-back moves. I got through this then onto some massive holds but I was just too pumped to climb on so I took my biggest fall yet (Which isn't that big) it was alot of fun though! After resting on the bolt and some handy beta from Ian again I managed to eventually fight my way to the top on what I thought was going to be a walk in the park. I knew at this point I was definitely lacking in my endurance!
It was great to be out down at the A55 again and meeting great like minded people! I'm psyched for getting better and improving and really hope to be ticking off some harder routes soon!