Sunday, 14 August 2011

Llanddulas Cave

Got in touch with Alex again for a full days climbing down at the A55. This time I was in for a surprise. Met up at the Shell garage with Alex, Paul (Another guy from UKC) and Mike Doyle. It was awesome to meet such a prolific person in the climbing community and a very down to earth and cool bloke.

Alex and Mike decided on going to Llanddulas Cave which I was looking forward to as again I had never been there. Mike was telling us about a new wall he has only just bolted called K.O Wall. We got there and the heavens opened but thankfully the routes stayed dry. It was good of Mike to show us his new routes and it felt such a privilege to climb new routes!

Warmed up on the only F5 on the wall which is very short only 3 bolts long. Then onto a 6a next to it. Walked round to a 6a+ slab which looked great, very similar to the climbing I'm used to at Trevor Rocks. Alex went first but didn't bag it On-Sight and rested but finished the route. I jumped on the lead hoping for the best and managed to get the On-Sight. My second 6a+ On-Sight. Felt good!

After this moved on round to the Upper Cave Area which is in the A55 guide book. A very cool looking cave which is in the picture above. Mike introduced us to the other climbers that were around which included Tony Shelmerdine another local bolter who was watching some guys climb his strange new route Lord Nibbler 6b with some major bridging moves.

After staring in awe at Chris Doyle's lines across the roof and Mike pointing out a roof project I got on a route.

I led the F5 to the right of the cave called Rosalind Franklins Picture 51 pretty interesting route but pretty dirty. I then hopefully attempted the 6b next to this on a Top Rope called Adolescent Stimuli felt pretty damn hard for a 6b and didn't finish it. It gets 6b+ on UKC. Moved onto the 6a+ to the left called Guano On Sight...There was definitely no On Sighting going on here but it was an incredible climb. After resting on the crux bolt I managed to precariously make my way through the crux moves. Definitely one of my favorite climbs and some really interesting Tufa's! Determined to return to this one and get the tick. My main problem seemed to be endurance which I noticed I lacked a lot of at Penmaen Head, something to work on!

By this point in the day I was pretty knackered, everyone left apart from Alex and I who headed over to The Forgotten Sun area. This was a great high wall of white rock. On sighted "Not Runout Groove" at F5+ and then sort of On sighted "Runout Groove" F6b but I'm convinced I went off route as it felt to easy for the grade and I'm definitely not On sighting this hard yet!

Awesome day out, probably the best climbing day I've ever had! I love these new area's they're worth the hours drive!

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